I have a few central hill pieces that I use. They are a combination of modified store bought and scratch built pieces. I think this is a good approach, especially when starting a terrain collection.
These first 2 pieces are a set of store bought injection molded foam rock outcroppings. There was originally very little "ground", and what there was, ended abruptly in a step. I personally prefer a gradual slope to get a more realistic look.
![](https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhFF3Mif5Kj-xE1d3HPkTIOvgYQQ2ahzzsuVaezY-ScOLHIxONyo5F0u43ZUlCL17FiLf83UfhhCZT000wPDZqii9W8U00W3OCb41I2i4Ei-RHiORRjjfA3s_pc6HLs2RFKL71_PboGaOY/s280/DSCN0507c-terrain.jpg)
This image illustrates the parts that I added. I used 1" pink foam board and hot glued it to the hill. Then painted and flocked to match my boards. A top heavy mini will have an issue balancing on the slope so there is a trade off for the aesthetic.
![](https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg4Zilg5s90UkXhK-JGrOlHoMo6scVzVfByN_YOhdpntoSEqGZ0GF0q-LawuMkwCM2lmkg1IPNdfAxdTz8QiptOLpuN1L9WR9YYk4zY2TPhpP06VILYuGzmS-pW1D8EuiV9qFm3QkA0Iaw/s280/DSCN0507d-terrain.jpg)
All I did to this injected molded foam piece was to shave the hill level. Using a serrated knife (a Ginsu actually), I created two flat areas at 1" and 2" high. It originally was sloped all the way with no flat surfaces.
![](https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhRn5sf_X9OvHAQ4fjEZHSF9InTOWuc-3FYaBKuxYN7PSHWyI2aLNIEzyTeSCDH-PuG3xAvFrN5QTgqftcWi5yncPB3qhoeti7VrJGaKf7OoIllxRIPmYTiDkyc68S28y1MW8eUnFW2Tpw/s280/DSCN0500c-terrain.jpg)
I have illustrated here where I leveled the hill. The left area is 1" and the right is 2" tall.
![](https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhyP4VhM7QW1qFcmy_lMBF0CASGR5VmlaM5ksio8nsx40MjRvz9uobFpjEyDGkWhtPaxCmlevqaKU4XXz3Y8YIjydbEbjCYmE9kcu4qedFJ-NZd8r18Uhs-DqUFdvcLB71yNQnA9gJOdUg/s280/DSCN0500d-terrain.jpg)
This piece was scratch built out of pink foam board. I thought I used 1" foam, but to my surprise (after the piece was completed), I discovered I used 3/4" foam instead. Actually, I didn't even realize I had 2 types of foam board!! I was not satisfied with leafing the hill "short", so I cut 2 pieces of cardboard and glued it to the bottom increasing the height to 1", blending in the details then repainting and flocking to get the final results (below).
![](https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgmY-5Hb9wFDU7PTeZyx3_SoV3SiKFgFk5HDgQxJbkhRniiHkbLsAVOd2JpjoyVePOU-UKjoV7BgBuVLI_3o8P9cAorr9u7z0n2anI-mZtQGhJCwpLglHhNBJg_oil-p2KWSz9bkETgys8/s280/DSCN0501c-terrain.jpg)
Here is a top view of two of the hills stacked. As you can see I sculpted the lower hill piece to match up with the rocky portion of one of the
![](https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh9IqlEFYKurN9vc7lhjwqX895mr7jzj6sYLvZ6_hQ489PITK9wpRef4Tdw6nvVRDXfCEeEMsodtL5z0S9Vd1GdRjOZHbpmfWEV4JWH97KeCJiGHIJQGGhJHo557_8M2Cj8MX6VFNzrag8/s280/DSCN0506c-terrain.jpg)
I used a combination of a hot blade and a heat gun to work in the rough rock detail. I have this really cool butane multi-tool that has different replaceable tips (soldering iron, heat gun, hot knife, and blow torch) The next step, I smeared spackle around with my finger and finally coated all the rock surfaces with watered down white glue mix.
The ground was coated with a sand mixture that I glued on. After drying overnight, I painted it brown and then dry brushed tan. I dabbled a little bit of sand and some larger granules around the rock surfaces. The rocks were painted black, dry brushed with a cool-gray, and then washed with a greenish-brown mixture.
I use inexpensive craft paints for my terrain. But I did buy a large bottle of scenic paint that I use as a wash to "dirty" things up.
They look really good. Lets see some models duke it out on them now. ;)
ReplyDeleteFirst time I've seen someone convert over-the-counter terrain. Great idea and execution! My only recommendation is to use a mini in the pics so we can have a size scale.
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